Manufacturers Recommended Settings

Personal preferred Settings

Nozzle temperature

240 - 260 °C

245 °C

Bed Temperature



Speed (mm/s)

40-60 mm/s

45 mm/s

Cooling Fan Speed


40 %

Max Flow Rate

mm3/s at °C



4.5mm @ 40mm/s

4.5mm @ 40mm/s

Other specifications


1.13 g/cm3


Diameter & Tolerance

2.85 ± 0.1mm


Bed Adhesive

Build Tac


In my case the higher temperatures caused a lot of stringing but worked well at 245°C. Speed: Testing of a flat test piece it would print up to 100mm/s but gaps began to show above 70mm/s so the published figures are good sticking to the general 50mm/s proved good quality on the top surface.

Volumetric Flow:
The test began to thin at 6mm3/s and failed at 7mm3/s but at 4-5mm3/s looked good and had good adhesion between the layers

Preferred settings:
For the testing I found the better prints were with a nozzle temperature of 245°C, a bed temperature of 60°C and using glue for bed adhesion, although to prevent warping it is advisable to add a brim of 4-6 widths to the components, print speed of 50mm/s was fine and would also print 0.1mm layers.

Tests :
  • Ultimaker Robot: With a brim the print printed nicely at 0.1mm layers only a little warping at the corners but it didn’t lift off the build plate, giving good results to the overhangs and the bridging although a little stringing is visible as well between the overhangs and bridging, perhaps increasing the cooling fans for the more detailed areas would help.
  • Tree Frog: Again using a brim helped prevented lifting off of the build plate but there is signs of warping post print, again a little stringing between the legs and body although increasing the retractions helped. At 0.2mm layers the mid part of the belly overhang is a little rough, upping the cooling fans may help this, as the edge of the lip was flexible and curled slightly for each layer. The back of the frog was nicely defined along with the head and eyes, just a little stringing between the eyes
  • 3DBenchy: Due to the shape of the hull there was a tendency to warp and a wide brim of 6+ widths is needed to help prevent the warping. Again the slope at the bow led to a rough print area, more cooling required to help the thin edge of the build slope, stringing and pips were visible about the wheel house doors and windows as additional melting of the layers about the chimney were the cooling settings need improving.














*As the vertical height can be effected by the distance of the bed-levelling to the nozzle the height of the “Top of the Chimney

to the top of the box” should be more accurate for the comparisons.

Colorfabb Ngen Flex

Conclusion: ColorFabb recommend ‘BuildTac’ for the print bed, but results could be achieved by using normal glue-stick and having a brim on the parts, this worked to keep the parts on the build-plate although a little warping could be seen at the corners, using glue-stick the plate temperature of 60°C was ideal, higher and it would have lesser effect.

It printed well on a single wall thickness for the Volumatic flow test and is very flexible and foldable so perhaps ideal for flexible parts and gators, increasing the wall thickness increases the stiffness as well as the addition of any infill.

The material is similar to ‘Polymaker’s PolyFlex’ although PolyFlex seems a little easier to print with, requiring less temperature, and didn’t require brims to prevent the warping, but this could be just that I have not yet dialled in the best print settings, I think that more testing is needed to fan settings especially for small areas where perhaps minimum layer time may be required to allow the layer to sufficiently cool before continuing, as well as retractions and print temperature to get the ideal print settings for this material, several test prints were lost when the warping took full affect after 5mm or so of print height and the print was aborted

Testing performed on an Ultimaker2, With a BondTec Feeder, an Olsson Block running a 35W heater and using a 0.4mm nozzle